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The Good Life Diary 2010

 
December
 

The temperatures started to drop during December and we had quite a few heavy frosts which brought all the small birds flocking to the bird table. To my amazement birds were not the only animal tempted there by the food. Several times we spied Anchovy (our cat) strategically placed on top of it; obviously not quite satisfied with just ‘Whiskers’!

This was a very busy month for us, preparing ceramic gifts for the Christmas markets and getting the house, gite and garden ready for the family who would be house sitting over Christmas.

Early on in the month we took a trip out with a trailer to the camel farm http://www.camelsinfrance.eu a few kilometres away in order to load up on free manure for the garden and potager. I have only ever witnessed camels in the Sahara and Egypt before so it did seem quite bizarre to see them (along with the llamas and alpacas) happily grazing in the frozen fields of South West France!

 
 

Also in December, Fin celebrated his 14th birthday and went bowling in Tarbes with two of his friends. Through-out the meal afterwards, they chatted in very fast French and I could hardly understand a word that my son was saying - which is most disconcerting!

Marciac Xmas market proved to be a great success for us and a healthy profit was made. It was a very long day though (8-7p.m.) so we took it in turns to sit at the stall. I was fortunate enough to be there in the afternoon when the warming sun shone on our side of the square making it a very pleasant place to be. And as the day drew to a close there was the wonderful smell of mulled wine in the air which was distributed, along with cake, to everybody.

 
Our Stall
Marciac Church
 

Amidst further reports of snow in the UK, we tentatively made our way to Toulouse airport the next evening and just as we were boarding the plane (a little later than scheduled), it was announced that Gatwick was closed. We finally took off in the early hours of the morning and were only one of four flights that were permitted to land that night. Driving to Broad Chalke (near Salisbury) proved to be a hairy experience due to the ice and snow but at least the roads were quiet and we got to my sister’s house in reasonable time considering.

We had forgotten quite how beautiful some of the English villages can be and Broad chalke must be one of the prettiest, with its stone walled, reed thatched buildings and chalk streams running through.

 
 

Of course, everything looks more magical with a blanket of snow on it and walking out into Jane’s garden in the morning, proved to be a truly uplifting experience after the stress of the previous night’s journey - though I don’t think the chickens and ducks would have agreed.

 
 

The next eight days were spent travelling around Wiltshire, Dorset, Hampshire, Kent and Surrey, catching up with all our friends and family. This proved to be an exhausting but very pleasurable time for us as we were meeting up with some people we hadn’t seen since we came out to France three years ago. I must admit that I did get a bit fed up when we seemed to be continuously asked how our French was coming on- a bit of a sore point for me I’m afraid!

I did enjoy shopping in the UK, not just because most things are so much cheaper. I found myself chatting with the cashiers and shop workers because I could and had obviously missed being able to do that in France. It was also nice to be able to eavesdrop on people’s conversations, which is something I don’t think I used to do, consciously anyway!

Christmas proved to be a wonderful time, in the presence of so many family members and it made us adamant that we will never spend another Christmas in France on our own in future.

Probably one of the highlights was when I finally called in a £30 bet that I had made 5 Xmases ago when Dave’s brother-in-law bet me that I would have a mobile phone by this Christmas!

We left the UK in temperatures of -7c and returned to quite a warm and sunny Toulouse though we were to understand that the weather had been even colder than the UK while we had been away.

Sadly, our oldest chicken Hetty had not survived the cold snap, so we returned to just the 6 hens and a clutch of 22 eggs hidden in the hanger where our guests couldn’t find them. Sadly, they had had an ‘egg free’ holiday!

It was really good to be back to the peace and tranquillity of our home after all the people and traffic in the UK and having that break away had rekindled our enthusiasm, so we returned with plenty of plans for the New Year . . . but these will be for January’s diary!

 

 
November
 

This month, the neighbouring maze field was finally cut, opening up the landscape to us even more and creating a hive of wildlife activity. The previous owner of the house did tell us once that all three of their cats used to sit at the edge of the field while it was being cut, in wait for the hundreds of migrating rodents. I can confirm however, that not one of our cats was interested in doing anything of the sort and that, not a single mouse was seen during the harvest!

There have been small groups of grazing roe deer however, along with huge moving clouds of pigeons and one or two gracefully gliding red kites and harriers.

We have been doing our own bit of grazing too, by picking up the remaining cobs. These will provide the chickens, geese and ducks with sufficient food to keep them going through-out the winter. The empty cobs are put aside for the summer as they make a good environmentally friendly alternative to charcoal for the barbecue.

 
A. Paysse
 

On November 11th, British x pats joined their French neighbours in commemorating those who died during the First World War. About 100 people congregated by the war memorial in Aux Aussat, where a small brass band played the French National anthem (which is a lot more cheery than ours) and the children of the commune, placed little posies of flowers on the memorial. This is always a very moving ceremony. Afterwards, we all went on to the Salle de fete where the local hunters (the chasse), prepared and served up a six course meal, consisting of a lot of wild boar and locally produced wine.

Our first ‘chasse meal’ (three years ago), was a real culture shock and proved to be a bit of a social struggle. Generally French country folk do not see ‘ambience’ as being a priority (despite it being a French word), so there is no music, the tables are set out in long lines like in a canteen and there is fluorescent lighting. The biggest struggle for us as new comers though, was the huge quantity of food (mainly meat) and drink and the five hours during which this was to be consumed. This year, as with the two previous times, we left the hall feeling uncomfortably full and mentally exhausted after having to make conversation over such a long period. I must say though, it is getting easier and it is lovely that people from the commune get together in this way.

Unlike the UK, we have had only one or two heavy frosts so far and one short flurry of snow. Last week we were shocked by the sudden increase in temperature to 17c and are still enjoying fresh coriander and lettuce, along with the usual winter vegetables.

The bats are asleep now and the frogs are nowhere to be seen, though we did discover one (very dead) green tree frog flattened against the inside of the front door last week.

 
Cottage at the top of the hill
 

At 14, our son has been experiencing his first work placement this week. Our attempt to place him in a recording studio having failed, Fin has been working in the local auberge for the last few days and has been helping to prepare three course meals for up to thirty sittings. All good experience!

We too have been busy with our ‘pottering’ and having done well at our first Christmas fair and are looking forward to the next one in Marciac on the 19th December.

I have also been busy updating our website www.gitetorentfrance.co.uk (with the help of my IT wizard of a brother John) and you will see that we have reduced our rental charges by £100 a week. The other good news is that Flybe have just announced that they will be running regular flights from Southampton to Pau from the 25th May, which will make the journey a lot easier for all our friends and family based near the new forest!

We will be flying back to the UK (sadly from Toulouse to Stansted), the day after our last Christmas fair. This will be our first visit in 18 months and while we are excited at the thought of catching up with everyone, I must confess that I’m anxious as to how we will adjust to all the people, the traffic and the queues! After two years of spending Christmas on our own, however, it will be so lovely to finally be amongst all those who are dear to us.

Elizabeth and Nigel (see below) will be relieved by this news, as they were originally down for the Christmas dinner, though to be honest, in naming them we have ensured their safety anyway!

Nigel and Elizabeth
 

Fortunately, the house and gite will be occupied during our absence, so all the animals will be well cared for and the old house will host another family for the festive season.

However our visit goes in the UK, I do know that we will all be happy to come home at the end of it and enjoy a good ‘knees up’ with our new friends, to see the New Year in.

In the meantime, we would like to take this opportunity to wish everybody who reads this, a . . .

Very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year’!
 

 
October
 
One of the very few things I look forward to in autumn, is the lighting of the wood burning stove and the cooker which provides the main heating for the house. At times it has been bizarrely warm (27°c) during the day; in fact one day we spotted a holiday maker sunbathing in a bikini, but at night, we have experienced our first frosts. The animals love lying by the cooker and the three cats have been fighting for space on the one armchair, with the youngest-Elgar, inevitably ending up getting pushed off.


Surprisingly, despite the colder evenings, the bats are still coming out at night, though the swallows and swifts left early on in the month as did our black redstarts, though I think Elgar may have had some hand in that! With the disappearance of the redstarts, the two lots of robins have finally returned and will probably be with us until the spring when another lot of black redstarts will make their presence known.

The most spectacular migration to whiteness at this time of year is certainly that of the cranes as they head towards the Pyrenees and on to Spain. They make the most wonderful sound and often, unlike geese there is a lack of formation in their flight. They seem to fly quite haphazardly, singing to each other as they go. It really looks as if they are having the most fantastic time! It was while we were at Marciac market that we saw the first large group flying above and it seemed that everybody stopped what they were doing in order to take in the spectacle and smile!

The children of France enjoyed ten days of half term during October, so all in all, what with three days of closure during the strikes, our son has been a happy boy! A lot of the holidays were spent fishing and during this time, Dave caught his ‘fish of the year’ a 4 lb rainbow trout in a river close by. We have also discovered a lovely trout lake near Lourdes where you pay for what you catch, so we usually catch a few trout for the neighbours while we are there.

The Pyrenees are looking lovely this time of year with the slight sprinkling of snow on the peaks-so the drive there is always an enjoyable one and there are parts of Lourdes which are very pretty.


For Halloween, we saw an opportunity to use up some of our pumpkins by making lots of lanterns which were festooned around the kitchen. French and Dutch friends were then invited to a Halloween meal with of course, pumpkin soup on the menu. The two horses’ skulls from the garden were lit up with candles and made a very creepy spectacle at the front door of the old house as our guests arrived. The evening was a success and we were pleasantly surprised that the chilli went down well with our friends as generally, the French do not like spicy food. You have to drive as far as Toulouse (1 1/2hrs away) for a decent curry! While the meal was a success, my French wasn’t and despite having weekly lessons, I am still struggling to grasp the language. I must say though, that a few glasses of wine certainly help the conversation flow more easily!


With Fin back at school, we are now busy with the pottery, preparing for the Christmas fairs. As well as the tiles on there own, we are making wooden boards for keys, coat hooks, salt boxes, pot stands, tables etc. all with tiles incorporated.; So now Dave has the opportunity to do one of the things he loves doing the most (besides fishing) which is working with wood.

Probably the highlight of October for us has been the sighting of a herd of about 20 wild boar which we spotted while driving home one evening. They were busy grazing in a field where the maize had just been cut and therefore did not seem to be bothered by the headlights of the car. There are plenty of wild boar around, but they are rarely seen, so we consider ourselves fortunate that we have so far seen boar twice this year and this must be the biggest herd we have ever come upon. Now we look forward to the local chasse (hunt) remembrance meal on November 11th when we will no doubt be eating sanglier in nearly every course. Thank goodness we are not vegetarians!

 


September
 

This month brought with it a few days of much needed rain and within days, the pond was full and the lawn lush green again. Many locals favour September as the temperatures tend to remain in the high 20s and low 30s making it a much more tolerable heat in which to work in.

We too have been busy and for the last few weeks we have enjoyed holding our first stall at Marciac market. As well as providing the perfect outlet in which to sell our goods, we have also found it a great way in which to improve our French and to immerse ourselves in the local community. Unlike Britain, it is relatively easy and cheap (under a euro) to have a stall which means that often you will find people setting up small stalls in order to sell the excess from their potager, often proving to be the best vegetables around!


Mushrooms have been for sale in their profusion, which has added to our own frustration at not being able to find any. When we lived in the New forest, we knew exactly where to find the ceps, parasols and oysters, rarely coming home empty handed, whereas here, we have had no luck whatsoever. To add to our frustration, we have heard our French neighbour boasting about the amount of ceps he has found recently. Our French friends have proved to be incredibly generous and accommodating, but not to the extent in which they will share the secret of where they find their mushrooms! We have not come home from foraging totally empty handed however, and have been collecting sufficient walnuts and hazelnuts to last us for the year.

We attended a couple of great music events this month, just when we thought there was an end to all the festivals etc. The restaurant/bar at Lupiac lake held an end of summer bash featuring an excellent 7 piece ska band that amazed us all by energetically playing a non stop two hour set, followed by another, half an hour later. Needless to say, a good time was had by all.

A little later in the month, we went to a British beer festival where Dave treated his taste buds to some much missed real ale and we enjoyed an incredibly lively Irish punk band. It was quite bizarre to witness a band made up of French and Irish members, dressed in Scottish tartan trousers and kilts, singing and playing Irish songs/tunes and introducing them in French!


September is always a busy month for vide greniers (car boot sales) and we went to a very big one at Isle de Noe, a very pretty village about 20 minutes drive away. Unlike the UK however, there is seldom a bargain to be had and gone are the days when the British would import French antiques to the UK and make a profit!

We continue our work on the house and have a long list of things to do during the cooler months, including finishing the old pig sty which we are turning into an out-side kitchen. We took great care in filling in the gaps in the out-side stone work and were relieved to see at the end of the job, that the bats were still able to fly out at dusk time.

Unfortunately the change in temperature also brings other animals in, including mice and pine martins. The latter, we managed to get rid of by playing very loud music in the loft for a few days as apparently, they hate noise. It did the trick!

A more magical visitor was the giant peacock moth which may well have metamorphosed from the caterpillar that I discovered last month. I like to think so!
All the birds are back now, looking very dapper with their new plumage and the swallows have been swarming for the past few weeks, getting ready to leave for warmer climes. This means that dawn is again, a magical time when numerous bird songs can be heard whereas when it was hot, Michael (our cockerel) was the only bird we would hear. We have also had some huge golden harvest moons and some beautiful dawn skies that have taken our breath away.


Now we are in the process of storing and preserving what the garden has produced during the year and I am pleased to say that it has been a very productive twelve months. Because it is so mild, we still have aubergines, chillies and runner beans growing. Chillies and haricot beans are drying in the kitchen and we have a very healthy store of vegetables in the shed. The surrounding maize is now ripe and the chickens, ducks and geese are benefiting from this change in their diet. Sadly, the courgettes continue to multiply but fortunately, we have found someone who will take them for pig food. Another month and their growing season will be over and we will no longer be eating courgettes-how sad is that?!!!
 
Dinner
The small lake down the lane
 

 
August
 

This has certainly been the hottest month of the year, with temperatures reaching 44c at times. There has also been a distinct lack of rain, which has meant that the water level in our pond has become worryingly low. This has enabled us to finally spot the two carp that Fin introduced a few months back, along with what must be hundreds of small fry.

As well as being incredibly hot, it has been really quiet due to most of the birds hiding away to moult and only the sparrows and the doves can be heard in the dawn chorus. Our cats therefore, have had to confine their hunting to the lizards and rodents; Needless to say that there are a lot of tailless lizards running around at the moment.

There has also been a profusion of butterflies this month (including the stunning swallowtail) and at night we have seen the tiny spotlights provided by a number of glow worms wondering around on the lawn.

One of two exciting discoveries this summer has been the huge green caterpillar that I found on one of our hornbeam trees, finally being identified by the Natural History Museum as being that of the giant peacock moth - the biggest moth in Europe.

 
Giant peacock caterpillar
 

We also spotted a nightjar for the first time while driving back in the car one evening. She had obviously just caught something and was just sitting in the middle of the road, so the headlights picked her up perfectly before she finally took off into the night sky.

As with last month, August has been a month full of various music festivals and fetes. The Marciac jazz festival was excellent this year and we managed to see quite a variety of different bands around the various bars and in the square.

Jamie Cullam was one of the headlining acts and we heard reports from those who saw him, that the concert was truly excellent and that the little man fairly rocked on stage.

More recently, we attended the Samatan African festival, which is held during the first w/e in September each year. This very pretty town was transformed into a colourful reflection of all things African including a large market, art exhibition and stage with African music and dancing through-out the town.

Over the last few weeks, we have been very fortunate to have some lovely guests staying in the gite. Everyone who has stayed has provided us with very positive feedback (see postcards section) and obviously appreciated their surroundings as much as we do. Even the haphazard ringing of the church bells has not gone unappreciated and a friend of ours, during his stay, recorded the sound as a ringtone for his phone.

The church bells go off just three times a day; going back to the time with there was a bastide here, the 8 a.m. peels would raise people in the bastide for work, the 12 p.m. ring would remind them of the (very long) lunch break and the 7 p.m. ring would be to call people back into the bastide for the evening (whereas now it acts as a reminder to our son that it is time to watch the Simpsons on TV).

 
Aussat chapel
 
Despite the lack of water over the last few weeks, this has proved an excellent year for growing veg and it looks like we have several months’ supply of squash, potatoes, beetroot, onions and haricot beans. As usual though, there has been a glut of courgettes and for some strange reason, the ten cucumber plants that Dave planted out have ‘transformed’ into more courgette plants. I’m seriously thinking of writing book, ‘101 things to do with a courgette’ if one hasn’t been written already!

Unlike the vegetable patch, we had no success with our attempt at poultry rearing this season. Sadly over half of the duck eggs were taken (we think by a ferret) and those remaining were addled. Likewise, the 8 hens’ eggs also failed to hatch despite the usual dedication and perseverance of Evil Eyes (our broody hen). We find this strange as she successfully hatched 6 eggs on Christmas day when the weather was a lot colder!

On cooler evenings, we have been going to our local lake to fish and then as the sun sets, cook a meal on the campfire. It really is a lovely way to spend an evening and the food definitely tastes better when it is cooked over a fire.

 
Monparidac lake
 

After nine weeks of holidays, our son returned to school and only three days later, there was a national strike resulting in the school being closed for the day. The French are unhappy at the suggestion that the retirement age should be changed from 60 to 62. This is not surprising from a nation that spends more time sleeping than the Japanese and 1½ hours a day eating, as opposed to ¾ of an hour in the UK.

‘I think I would like to live there’! Commented the radio broadcaster as she passed on this information…..Well we certainly do!

 
Monpardiac lake
The back herb garden
 

 
July
 

As summer arrived and the longest day was had, the cuckoo suddenly stopped singing and the frog chorus slowly faded.

The moorhens (quite sensibly) left the pond after finding the continuous stalking of three cats, too much to bear.

We solved the mystery of the disappearing robins; apparently, as soon as the black redstarts arrive in the spring, they oust the robins from their territory, leaving them to find alternative accommodation for the duration of the breeding period. So it looks like our robins won’t be back for a while.

Elizabeth and Nigel (the geese) are now much bigger (and brighter) than our Peking ducks and continue to charm us. Given that they now have names and are evidently sociable beings, it is doubtful that they will end up on the dinner plate. Also in the enclosure, we have a sitting duck. There are a dozen eggs under her that are due to hatch later this month and if they do, then we will be successful in providing all our own poultry.

We have been enjoying some wonderfully warm weather over the past few weeks, just perfect for picnics and swimming. Fortunately, we have found one or two special places that are perfect for both.

On really hot days, we have been walking down to our neighbouring lake (Monpardiac) for a cool early evening dip. When it’s really hot the Pyrenees have some wonderful picnic spots by waterfalls and rivers where the air is so clean and the temperature is that bit cooler.

We have also discovered Lupiac lake where there is actually a proper beach and a rather nice bar where they have live music in the evenings through-out the summer. Although it is a 40 minute drive from here, it is well worth the drive, particularly this time of the year when the fields of sunflowers are evident.

 
 

In July, we had the Mirande Country and Western festival and enjoyed the spectacle of the line dancing cowboys and girls, Harley Davidson motorbikes and huge American cars that descend upon this small French town for a few days.

Also in July, we enjoyed the Latino festival at Vic Fezensac which was incredibly colourful and lively providing some excellent Latin music, along with some amazing salsa dancing.

Our son’s band (VoltR) was busy this month so we attended a number of free rock festivals and concerts all around the Gers.

The Marciac Jazz festival is now in full swing and as usual, is providing a wide variety of music, street entertainment, art exhibitions along with a wide selection of bars and restaurants to frequent. Apparently some people in the town transform their lounges into restaurants and bars, just for the two weeks of the festival.

 
   


We finally completed our outside bread oven and managed to successfully cook enough pizza for nine people the other day; so future guests will be pleased to hear that pizza may well be on the menu!

We are continuing to work on the pottery and are now selling our wares, along with our excess vegetables at the local market, every week. This has meant a double sacrifice of having no lie in on a Sunday morning and missing the omnibus edition of the Archers. Interest has been shown though, particularly in our handmade tiles, so we are optimistic that the sacrifices will be worth it.

We have received enquiries about posting to the UK, but at the moment, we would prefer just to trade locally; guests will of course be welcome to view and purchase.

 
 
So, as the temperatures rise, the birds go into hiding to moult and the cats take a break from hunting, we too will be looking to enjoy the rest of the summer holidays at a slightly slower pace until the robin returns.
 

 
June

The gite was completed this time last year. We enjoyed the arrival of our first guests later on in the year and were happy to see that visitors were just as impressed with their surroundings as we had hoped they would be. Since then, we have been busy converting the rest of the house, working hard on the land, the garden and extending our livestock.

Sadly, the goats had to be re homed due to their demanding nature and rather pungent smell. Happily though, they are now living contentedly with other goats in a large meadow somewhere in the Pyrenees.

The large enclosure now holds the cockerels (that were hatched on Xmas day) and three Peking and three Barbary ducks, all eventually for eating. Our most recent acquisition has been two young goslings, also brought to fatten up, but they are becoming increasingly sociable and friendly, making it difficult to contemplate any such end!

This time last year, we also adopted a tiny kitten that was found half drowned by the side of a river. Elgar has since proved to be a very loveable and useful addition to the family and has been readily accepted by the other two cats.

Our vegetable patch has grown considerably since we moved here two years ago and we are close to achieving our goal of being self sufficient in fruit and veg. – at least during the summer and autumn months. Our guests will be able to enjoy fresh produce including our free range eggs, plums, peaches, melons, squash, artichoke, chard and tomatoes etc.

In a bid to improve our local knowledge, we have been out and about quite a bit too, enjoying the various nearby music festivals, fetes and feasts! Having played the role of the tourist, we can now recommend numerous places to visit, along with some excellent bars and restaurants all within a short drive of the gite.

Our son, a keen fisherman, has discovered some delightful lakes and rivers where the occasional carp or trout can be caught. France is well served with shady picnic and beauty spots which provide the perfect environment in which to observe nature or enjoy a good book.

   
   

This year the moorhens have returned to our pond, obviously having forgotten how the cats sought after their chicks two years ago. It is lovely to hear their call along with that of the cuckoo in the woods opposite and the nightingale down the lane. We have the ‘frog chorus’ back again and this wonderful sound will continue every day from dusk into the evening for a few more weeks to come. Red kites can be seen soaring high in the sky and occasionally we spot the odd Hoopoe on the lawn.

The wild flowers this time of the year are in profusion, making the walks down the lane a real feast for the eyes. Slowly, we are developing a wild meadow part to our garden, which will incorporate most of the local wild flowers, but explaining this to our free range hens is another matter as they seem to enjoy roaming this area more than any other!

Our most recent project has been converting the old cowshed into a small pottery ‘Presbetry Pottery’. We now make bespoke tiles, chimes, garden decorations, teapots and other small items which we will be selling at Mielan craft market every Sunday during July and August. All our pottery is made from the local earthenware clay, common in the Gers and therefore has a lovely rich colour, reflecting the warm hues of the local soil.

Finally, this month, we have friends coming to help us complete our homemade pizza oven, in true Hugh Fernley-Whittingstall style. We are therefore hoping to extend our skills to pizza and bread making, which (if a success), will be available to our guests.

Now we are looking forward to another fine summer of sunshine, outside eating, good wine and plenty of live music. This certainly is ‘The good life’!

   
   
   
 

 

The Good Life Diary 2012

The Good Life Diary 2011

The Good Life Diary 2009

 
 
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